Mourvèdre, sometimes called monastrell or mataró, is commonly used as a blending grape in Rhone-style wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or as the silent partner to some of California’s finest zinfandels.  Mourvèdre adds structure and finesse to common blends, elevating them to some of the most sought after wines. You almost never see this grape used in a single-varietal bottling because so little of it is grown around the world, but when it is grown in the right location, by the right people, you get a spectacular wine!  Such is the case for Cline Cellars‘ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre!

Fred Cline’s Oakley ranch, located 40 miles east of San Francisco, is home to some of California’s oldest plantings of these rare vines (80-120 years old). The vineyards, situated in the midst of Contra Costa’s sprawling parking lots and big box stores, are in a setting far less idyllic than southern France or the picturesque Napa Valley.  The Cline family planted these vineyards five generations ago, long before the real estate boom engulfed California.  Here they soon recognized that the land was blessed with the perfect conditions for growing hearty grapes like mourvèdre.  The hot, almost desert-like conditions during the day are tempered by the cooling effects of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers at night.  The weather combined with sandy, well-drained soils forces the old vines to struggle, producing a small amount of very intensely flavored and structured fruit.

Tasting Notes:

Cline Cellars’ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($16) is one of life’s guilty pleasures.  I found its musky aromas of ripe plums and black cherries strangely seductive, with essences of cedar and coffee that draw you in further into the glass.  The palate is a blend of full-bodied blackberry and cherry liqueur flavors with a wonderfully balanced, tannic finish of dark chocolate that leaves you longing for more.  And it gets even better!  If you liked it on day one, hold on to it for another day or two (if you have the will power) and observe how the flavors and aromas become more rich and complex!  Decanting or aerating may speed this along, but this is one is well worth waiting for.