Browsing the archives for the Tasting Note category

Cline Cellars 2007 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre

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Tasting Note

Mourvèdre, sometimes called monastrell or mataró, is commonly used as a blending grape in Rhone-style wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or as the silent partner to some of California’s finest zinfandels.  Mourvèdre adds structure and finesse to common blends, elevating them to some of the most sought after wines. You almost never see this grape used in a single-varietal bottling because so little of it is grown around the world, but when it is grown in the right location, by the right people, you get a spectacular wine!  Such is the case for Cline Cellars‘ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre!

Fred Cline’s Oakley ranch, located 40 miles east of San Francisco, is home to some of California’s oldest plantings of these rare vines (80-120 years old). The vineyards, situated in the midst of Contra Costa’s sprawling parking lots and big box stores, are in a setting far less idyllic than southern France or the picturesque Napa Valley.  The Cline family planted these vineyards five generations ago, long before the real estate boom engulfed California.  Here they soon recognized that the land was blessed with the perfect conditions for growing hearty grapes like mourvèdre.  The hot, almost desert-like conditions during the day are tempered by the cooling effects of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers at night.  The weather combined with sandy, well-drained soils forces the old vines to struggle, producing a small amount of very intensely flavored and structured fruit.

Tasting Notes:

Cline Cellars’ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($16) is one of life’s guilty pleasures.  I found its musky aromas of ripe plums and black cherries strangely seductive, with essences of cedar and coffee that draw you in further into the glass.  The palate is a blend of full-bodied blackberry and cherry liqueur flavors with a wonderfully balanced, tannic finish of dark chocolate that leaves you longing for more.  And it gets even better!  If you liked it on day one, hold on to it for another day or two (if you have the will power) and observe how the flavors and aromas become more rich and complex!  Decanting or aerating may speed this along, but this is one is well worth waiting for.

2006 Nick DeRose, Sr. Zinfandel

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Tasting Note

Fortune smiled upon me a few weeks ago when I had the opportunity to try the 2006 Nick DeRose, Sr. Zinfandel ($26) from DeRose Vineyards.  Having sampled several other wines from DeRose, including another incredible zinfandel, and I think this is one of their best.  The 2006 vintage is a tribute bottling to the late Nick DeRose, Sr.,  whose influence and guidance has helped make his family’s wines what they are today.

The DeRose vineyards are located in one of the best locations for growing zinfandel – California’s Cienega Valley.  Located high in the Gabilan mountains about 25 miles east of Monterey Bay, the vineyards are sheltered from the cool Pacific breezes on the west and the intense summer heat of the San Joaquin Valley to the east.  Here the grapes enjoy warm, sunny days, developing their rich color and flavors.  Cool nights let the grapes rest, helping them retain the much needed acidity to balance out these powerful wines.

Nick’s vintage is created from four blocks of estate grown fruit.  A small six-acre parcel planted in the early 1980′s provides the backbone for the blend and three other blocks of dry farmed “old vines,” originally planted in the late 1890′s, give this zinfandel its depth and intensity.

Tasting Notes:

This bold, full-bodied zinfandel is a fitting metaphor for Nick DeRose’s bold and charismatic personality.  Bold fragrances of blackberries and spicy black cherries filled the room when the first glass was poured.  Swirling the seductive scarlet and purple wine revealed long, silky “legs” coating the inside of the glass, preparing you for the sensory experience ahead.  The flavors are equally as bold and intense as the aromas.  Briary raspberries and blackberries blend together seamlessly with hints of dark cherry and freshly ground black pepper. All of these rich aromas and flavors are masterfully balanced with wine’s the lofty alcohol content (16.4% ABV), leaving you with a long-lasting finish of exotic spices and soft tannins.

Stealing Time For Some Great Wine

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Tasting Note

After running a few errands in downtown Milwaukee, I found that I had a little time on my hands.  It had been a while since I visited the Public Market so I decided to stop in at the Thief Wine Shop & Bar and sample a few wines.  With several hours before the start of Gallery Night (our local quarterly art review), the owners, Phil and Aimee were already busy serving patrons. Once I found a spot to settle down, I selected a few interesting wines from their wide assortment of wines by the glass, flight, or bottle.

The first wine I tried was a young, but elegant  pinot noir from New Zealand’s Marlborough region.  The 2008 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir ($17.50) has everything you would expect from a cool climate pinot noir with its bright acidity and tart red fruit flavors.  Hidden in the pale ruby color are fragrant flavors of ripe cranberries, cherries and pomegranate with the softest hints of tannin.  Don’t let the light color fool you.  This pinot noir has a pleasant body and mouthfeel with a generous backbone of crisp acidity.

Next up was a Chilean carménère born in the foothills of the Andes mountains.  The 2007 Terra Andina Reserva Carménère ($11.50) was a world apart from the delicate kiwi pinot noir. Terra Andina makes this wine from 100% carménère grown in the Rapel Valley near Santiago.  With deep red and violet hues, its aromas are alive with plums, black currants and blackberries, backed up with layers of cedar and spice.  Its balanced flavors and rich body are enhanced by soft tannins that build throughout the lengthy finish.

The third wine on the list is from Napa Valley.  Madrigal’s 2006 Zinfandel ($17.50) is even bigger and bolder than the previous two wines.  Located in Calistoga at the northern tip of Napa Valley, the winemakers at Madrigal get their grapes from some of the best zinfandel vineyards in the valley. In true zinfandel style, this is a juicy, fruit-forward powerhouse!  Heady aromas of black raspberries and dark cherries fold into rich layers of vanilla and spice.  The flavors are full-bodied, delivering a punch of spicy red berries wrapped in vanilla and caramel following up with a generous finish of pepper and cocoa.

To finish out the quartet, I selected a Spanish sherry from González Byass.  “Solera 1847″ Oloroso Dulce ($11.95) is a sweet sherry made from Palomino and Pedro Ximénez (sometimes called “PX”).  The name of this sherry comes from original solera laid down in 1847 by González and Byass in Jerez, Spain. Within its golden brown, coffee-like tones are alluring scents of raisins, figs, and orange peel blended with a myriad of woody spices.  Creamy flavors of toffee, vanilla and dried fruits are balanced with soft acidity that ties it all together.  Perfect for a cold January afternoon!

Good Things Come In 3′s – A Sparkling New Year!

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Tasting Note

With 2009 being a year full of ups and downs, Sue an I were determined to start 2010 off right.  And what better way to start the new year than with Champagne and sparkling wine!  For this year we selected three very different wines from three very different places, each with it’s own unique style.  One with a distinguished pedigree; one from a small, rural producer; and one from an up-and-coming estate in a place you would not expect to find great sparkling wines.

The first sparkler of the evening was from Point Reyes Winery in Point Reyes Station, California, one of the few wineries in Marin County. This non-vintage blanc de blanc is made according to the traditional methods pioneered in Champagne, France.  The winemakers and owners, Steve and Sharon Doughty make their sparkling wines from all estate-grown fruit, and it shows.  Their location on the Pacific coast is well suited to growing chardonnay, where ocean breezes keep the grapes from ripening too quickly, allowing the fruit to retain its fresh acidity.  As the name implies, blanc de blancs are 100% chardonnay and this one exploded with all of the fresh, crisp flavors you might expect from a young, cool weather chardonnay.  The appley, citrus flavors were quite refreshing with prickly acidity delivered by a froth of fine bubbles.  This sparkler didn’t have the biscuity undertones that you would normally expect and the finish is short and clean, making it little one-dimensional, but still very delicious, especially for $25!  If you are looking to buy a bottle, your best bet is to contact the winery directly or stop in and visit their tasting room.

The next bottle of bubbly was a fantastic Champagne produced by Gonet-Medeville.  “Tradition,” as it is called, is a brut style, premier cru Champagne from the village of Bisseuil, France. Sue and I were fortunate enough to try this one at a Champagne tasting hosted by the Waterford Wine Company two days earlier, so we had a good idea what to expect. What we didn’t expect was how much better it was going to get! “Tradition” is a blend of the three grapes normally associated with fine champagne: chardonnay, pinot noir, and an obscure grape called pinot menuier.  The winemaker, Xavier Gonet, has blended these three grapes (70% chardonnay, 25% pinot noir, 5% pinot meunier) into a fine cuvée that evokes romantic images of rustic French villages on the chalky hillsides of Champagne.  Complex flavors and aromas of ripe apples, zesty citrus and fresh baked brioche meld seamlessly with the creamy, almond infused mousse.  The lengthy finish leaves you wanting more long after the bottle is empty!  Pricey ($52) but well worth it!

Last, and certainly not least, we finished our New Year’s celebration with an elegant vintage sparkling wine from the east coast.  The 2004 Kluge Estate Blanc de Blanc comes to us from Albemarle County in the state of Virginia, a location you would not normally associate with great sparkling wines. Kluge Estate Winery is a relatively new winery (1999) nestled into the Blue Ridge Mountains near Charlottesville, Virginia and is doing some great things with sparkling wines.  Winemaker Charles Gendrot and wine consultant Laurent Champs (owner of Vilmart et Cie in Champagne, France) painstakingly crafted this blanc de blanc from Kluge’s best chardonnay. The end result is a vibrant wine with finely focused apple and pear flavors and complex hints of warm toast and roasted almonds. It has a creamy mouthfeel with tight bubbles and a clean, zesty finish.  As an American sparkling wine, I found this blanc de blanc to be just as thought provoking and delicious as the Gonet-Medeville at fraction of the price ($32)!

This might be a good time to make a New Year’s resolution – Try one new Champagne or sparkling wine each month throughout the year.  There are so many great wines out there it seems a shame to relegate sparkling wines to only holidays or special events. Wouldn’t life be more interesting if we drank champagne just for the fun of it?

Here’s to a bright and promising new year. Cheers!

2006 Clérotstein Crémant d'Alsace – Symphonie en "P"

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Tasting Note

I know you are probably looking at the title, shaking your head and saying – What??!!  In short, this is a tasty and affordable sparkling wine made in the Alsace region of France.  Clérotstein is the producer and “Crémant d’Alsace” says it is a sparkling wine from Alsace.   Crémants are sparkling wines made in the traditional Champagne method.  France’s strict wine and food laws (AOC) only allow sparkling wines made in the Champagne region to be called “Champagne.”  In terms of quality, the AOC laws are just as strict for crémant, but the producers are allowed to use different grapes along with some other variations. Real Champagne’s usually command a hefty price tag ($40-$100 or more).  Crémants offer a wide array of affordable wines from many different regions of France.

Tasting Notes:

Symphonie en “P” is made from a trio of grapes that are well adapted to the cool Alsatian climate: pinot noir, pinot gris, and pinot blanc.  The final result is an effervescent blend of floral and citrus aromas combined with flavors of minerals, lemon peel, and toasty biscuits.  The idea of toast and biscuits in a sparkling wine may seem strange, but it is quite common and desired in Champagne and crémant.  These yeasty flavors come from the time the finished wines spend resting on lees. The cool climate keeps the acidity in the grapes high and it shows in how the bubbles and flavors dance around in your mouth for a lengthy finish.  Although this wine is labeled as “brut” or a dry style of wine, it still carries a little sweetness, but not at all unpleasant. Very good for $28.

If you are looking to find this wine, your best bet is to try Cinega Imports (DeRose Vineyards). They have several other Clérotstein wines that you may find interesting. Due to our pesky and antiquated shipping laws, call ahead or check their website to make sure they can ship to your location.

1976 Maison Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

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Tasting Note

 I’ve finally managed to pull myself away for from the office to enjoy some much needed vacation time.  I went to pick up my Christmas present at the Waterford Wine Company- 6 bottles of 2006 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve! Sue must really love me.  After I picked up the wine, Ben asked if I wished to sample a few wines he had open for his customers. Much to my surprise, one of the offerings was a bottle of 1976 Maison Leroy Vosne-Romanée, a Premier (1er) Cru Burgundy, from the Côte de Nuits!

This is the oldest, most prestigious (definitely the most expensive) wine I have tasted to date. With that in mind, I had no idea what to expect. Would tasting this wine be a life changing event or just another pricey pinot noir? Recognizing my limited experience in this arena, I have to say this is a really good wine.  It was not life changing, but still very good nonetheless.

Tasting Notes:

The ’76 Leroy has so many different layers of aromas and flavors it is hard to believe that there is only one grape variety in the bottle.  I was pleasantly surprised how vibrant the aromas and flavors were after almost 34 years.  In the glass, it has a gorgeous soft reddish-purple hue with a just a hint of garnet showing through on the edges.  Distinct aromas of tart cherries, smoke, and damp earth mingle together with sumptuous cherry flavors and a tart cranberry-like acidity. The finish seems to go on forever with wonderfully soft tannins that build towards the end.  I’ve tasted quite a few pinot noirs and many were very good, but this one has set a new standard!

What a great way to kick off the holidays.  Thanks Ben!

2005 Boorman Estate Pinot Noir

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Tasting Note

Boorman Vineyards is a relatively new winery located in southern California’s Temecula Valley. They are a very small operation (1,500 cases total) using state of the art equipment to craft their wines in small lots. Their focus is on creating a few unique wines with a degree of quality and finesse not found in larger operations. Boorman currently offers: Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, including a few Bordeaux-style blends. They also make a unique pinot noir.

The 2005 Pinot Noir is a huge wine! When I say “huge” I mean heavy bodied flavors with lots of alcohol (14.5% ABV). Southern California’s warm climate tends to produce much riper fruit than normally found in traditional pinot noirs. Boorman ferments their pinot noir for a longer period of time to breakdown the additional sugar in the ripe grapes, adding to the high alcohol content.

Tasting Notes:

The flavors and aromas are intense to say the least. Complex aromas of raisins, dark cherries, and pepper radiate from the glass. I compared this to a bottle of Leacock’s 10 year Madeira and the aromas were almost identical, very unusual for pinot noir. Tart cherry flavors combine with black pepper and a healthy dose of tannins. I suggest decanting or aerating this one early to help soften the tannins. The high alcohol content adds a tremendous amount of heat to the finish, making the wine seem out of balance. This is more like a tenacious young zinfandel than the delicate pinot noirs I have become accustomed to. Hopefully the 2007 is a little more balanced.

2003 Tres Hermanas Syrah

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Tasting Note

This is the second wine I’ve had from the Tres Hermanas Vineyard and Winery. The first was their wonderful sauvignon blanc that I tasted for Varietal Voyage No.1. Their 2003 syrah is equally as great!

Tres Hermanas is known for their French and Italian style red wines. In fact, the Central Coast AVA, where TH is located, has a very similar climate to France’s Southern Rhone Valley where syrah is transformed into some of the world’s most popular wines.

Tasting Notes:

This wine has all the hallmarks of a great syrah with its inky garnet color and a bouquet full of earthy and spicy aromas. The 2003 Syrah is a very complex wine that has a lot to offer, but it takes some time to fully understand and enjoy it. This one is full of jammy blackberries with many layers of smokey earth and herbal flavors. The long finish showcases its peppery spice and bittersweet chocolate. Pair this with a juicy grilled steak and you won’t go wrong!

2005 Oreana Central Coast Pinot Noir

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Tasting Note
Located in downtown Santa Barbara, the Oreana Winery is in a tricked out combination winery/warehouse/tasting room called “Cellar 205.” In the past several years they have crafted some very interesting and award winning wines. As part of California’s Central Coast AVA, they enjoy a cool maritime climate where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish.

A few years ago I was lucky enough to buy a couple bottles of Oreana’s 2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir at a private tasting in Milwaukee hosted by David Breen. I didn’t realize how lucky I was until I heard that less than 100 cases were produced! This Thanksgiving seemed to be the perfect occasion to finally enjoy a bottle.

When we first open bottle we were immediately struck by rich cherry and spicy cinnamon aromatics. Pouring our first glasses of this dark red cherry colored Pinot Noir released even more of the wonderful aromas. This followed with juicy black cherry and currant flavors. The ripe red fruit and medium body made for a pleasing finish with just a little heat (14.1% ABV). A perfect pairing for Thanksgiving!

Wish I had bought more!

Shingleback “Black Bubbles” Sparkling Shiraz

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Tasting Note

Several months ago I learned about sparkling shiraz from a friend. The concept seemed interesting, so I filed it away in that dark place somewhere between my ears for future reference. As luck would have it, I spotted a bottle of Shingleback “Black Bubbles” Sparkling Shiraz at the Grapes & Tastes, the new wine shop that just opened in Cedarburg.

Shingleback Winery, in Australia’s McLaren Vale, produces many different wines, but Black Bubbles is their only sparkler. The winemakers at Shingleback blend together several vintages of shiraz to create a fruit-forward wine with relative complexity.

I brought this bottle to Thanksgiving dinner with my parents, where we enjoyed it as an aperitif. The first thing we noticed were the aromas of blackberries carried by the bubbles. The bubbles weren’t quite black, but definitely on the deep purple side of the spectrum. Very ripe, sweet flavors of blackberries and currants balanced well with its mild acidity. The spicy character and soft tannins of the shiraz really came through in the finish. Make sure to keep it well chilled. We noticed the flavors begin to fall flat as it warms up.

Not bad for the first sparkling shiraz I’ve tried. This is an easy drinking wine, perfect for a summer barbecue or a nice pairing to a sweet chocolate dessert.

Shingleback “Black Bubbles” Sparkling Shiraz ($30)