Browsing the archives for the Pinot Noir tag

Maison Alain Soutiran – Brut Perle Noire N.V.

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Tasting Note

The Soutiran family has made Champagne since the late 1950′s.  Based in Ambonnay, one of the seventeen grand cru villages in the Champagne district, Maison Alain Soutiran produces a variety of fine Champagnes including their Vintage Cuvée, Brut Grand Cru, Brut Blanc de Blanc, Cuvée Alexandre and last but not least, their Brut Perle Noire.

The quality of Ambonnay’s pinot noir is the reason that it was granted grand cru status, making Soutiran’s Brut Perle Noire ($60), a blanc de noir made from 100% pinot noir, all that more special.

What makes it even more special is that I was lucky to pick up several bottles at Grapes and Grain’s closing sale last year.  And to make things even better, I got them at 60% off the retail price!  Who says you can’t drink well in a down economy?

Tasting Notes:

Perle Noire’s rich golden hue has a wonderfully expressive bouquet of strawberries and tart cherries with mild earthy aromas.  The flavors are full-bodied flavors with a delicate structure that only pinot noir can give.  The yeasty character of fresh brioche adds further complexity to the cuvée.  The fine mousse and crisp acidity keep the intense flavors alive and dancing on your palate.  The dry finish is refined and long-lasting making this sparkler perfect for rich seafood like lobster or scallops.

Midwest Wine School Experience – WSET Intermediate Level – Class 7

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Midwest Wine School Experience

Rendell Thomas led the seventh class of the WSET Intermediate Level course,   The topic for this session – Sparkling wines and sweet dessert wines!  Admittedly, I have a weak spot for Champagne and sparkling wine so this was a particularly fun class for me.  The addition of the sweet dessert wines made for a fun night!

Rendell started the evening with a brief rundown on the history of sparkling wine and its origin, now believed to be from southern France (What? It wasn’t invented in Champagne?!). We also received a primer on the proper terminology with regards to sparkling wine and its production.

Many times we hear the terms Champagne and sparkling wine used interchangeably.  This has always been a point of contention, especially for the French who guard the term Champagne like it was their first born child, and rightfully so.  For centuries, France has pioneered and perfected the methods used to make Champagne.  From the vineyard to the cellar, painstaking and labor intensive process are used to make the so called “drink of kings.” They have the right to protect what they have worked so hard for.  Just to be clear, if it’s not from the Champagne region of France it is a sparkling wine.  There are many alternate terms used around the world.  In Spain, they call it Cava.  In Germany they call it Deutscher Sekt (or just plain Sekt in rest of the European Union).  In Italy you’ll hear it called Proseco or Asti. Within France it’s called Crémant when it comes from outside of the Champagne region.  In the US and most of the English speaking countries it’s called sparkling wine with just a few legal exceptions.

The primary grapes used to make sparkling wines are chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, especially in France.  However there are variations, such as, muscat, riesling, macabeo or shiraz, just to name a few.

The labor intensive process used to make Champagne and top quality sparkling wines is called the méthode champenoise (“Champagne method”) or méthode traditionnelle (“traditional method”). Even this terminology is closely protected by the French AOC laws and can only be used sparingly.  There are other processes that are less labor intensive, such as the tank method or transfer method, that create lower quality sparkling wines, but the upside is that they are more affordable for the average consumer.

The last part of the evening was spent discovering sweet wines, such as Eiswein and Sauternes, just to name a few.  There are so many different types of sweet wines (and I’m not talking about white zinfandel) it’s hard to describe them all.  To make things simple, Rendell broke them down into three broad categories:

  • Interrupting the fermentation process (Vin Doux Naturels, etc.)
  • Adding a sweet component to the blend like unfermented grape juice (Oloroso sherries, etc.)
  • Concentrate the sugars in the grapes, either through drying or noble rot (Tokaji Aszú, Sauternes, etc.).

The styles vary greatly but you can guarantee they are all very rich and decadent.  Like Champagne, the processes used to create many of these liquid treasures are laborious and expensive.  Luckily many sweet wines, like late harvest rieslings and gewürztraminers, are affordable and easy to enjoy as or with any number of desserts.

Jessica Bell returns next week for our final class…Fortified wines & spirits!

Wines Tasted (Class 7):

  1. Gruet Blanc de Noirs NV (New Mexico)
  2. Jaillance Crémant de Bourgogne NV (Burgundy, France)
  3. Marqués de Gelida Cave (Catalunya, Spain)
  4. Taittinger Brut NV (Champagne, France)
  5. Robertson Winery Special Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2008 (Breede River Valley, South Africa)
  6. Château Haut Mayne Sauternes 2006 (Bordeaux, France)

2008 Tabali Reserva Especial Pinot Noir

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Tasting Note

Last night was the official grand opening for Grapes & Tastes, the new wine shop in Cedarburg.  The owners, Brad and Joni, were busy greeting the public and making sure everyone felt welcome.  Sue and I perused shelves full of interesting (and affordable) bottles from around the world while sampling some curious South African wines and nibbling on delicious hors d’oeuvres. Eric, a member of G & T’s friendly and very knowledgeable staff, greeted us and asked all of the right questions, looking to discover our particular tastes.  He quickly steered us to a several selections suited to our palates and our budget. We took Eric’s advice and picked a young Chilean pinot noir and some gourmet cheese to pair with it.  I’m happy to say that Eric’s suggestion was spot on.  The 2008 Tabali Reserva Especial Pinot Noir ($22) is excellent!  Here is a little bit about Tabali…

The Tabali vineyards and winery are in the Limari Valley, one of Chile’s most northern grape growing regions.  On the edge of the Valle del Encanto (Enchanted Valley), Tabali’s vineyards grow in a sunny, semi-arid climate kept in check by the high altitude and cooling effects of fog that flows in every morning from the Pacific Ocean. This tempering of the climate keeps the grapes from ripening too quickly and produces wines of great depth and character.

Tasting Notes:

I’m happy we took Eric’s advice. This wine has all of the characteristics of a fine pinot noir at a very affordable price.  Soft, fruity aromas of cherries and strawberries amplify juicy flavors of strawberries and tart cranberries with bright acidity. Ten months of aging in French oak barrels creates a lingering toasty finish of vanilla and peppery spice.

Thanks to the entire G&T team for the fun experience.

Stealing Time For Some Great Wine

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Tasting Note

After running a few errands in downtown Milwaukee, I found that I had a little time on my hands.  It had been a while since I visited the Public Market so I decided to stop in at the Thief Wine Shop & Bar and sample a few wines.  With several hours before the start of Gallery Night (our local quarterly art review), the owners, Phil and Aimee were already busy serving patrons. Once I found a spot to settle down, I selected a few interesting wines from their wide assortment of wines by the glass, flight, or bottle.

The first wine I tried was a young, but elegant  pinot noir from New Zealand’s Marlborough region.  The 2008 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir ($17.50) has everything you would expect from a cool climate pinot noir with its bright acidity and tart red fruit flavors.  Hidden in the pale ruby color are fragrant flavors of ripe cranberries, cherries and pomegranate with the softest hints of tannin.  Don’t let the light color fool you.  This pinot noir has a pleasant body and mouthfeel with a generous backbone of crisp acidity.

Next up was a Chilean carménère born in the foothills of the Andes mountains.  The 2007 Terra Andina Reserva Carménère ($11.50) was a world apart from the delicate kiwi pinot noir. Terra Andina makes this wine from 100% carménère grown in the Rapel Valley near Santiago.  With deep red and violet hues, its aromas are alive with plums, black currants and blackberries, backed up with layers of cedar and spice.  Its balanced flavors and rich body are enhanced by soft tannins that build throughout the lengthy finish.

The third wine on the list is from Napa Valley.  Madrigal’s 2006 Zinfandel ($17.50) is even bigger and bolder than the previous two wines.  Located in Calistoga at the northern tip of Napa Valley, the winemakers at Madrigal get their grapes from some of the best zinfandel vineyards in the valley. In true zinfandel style, this is a juicy, fruit-forward powerhouse!  Heady aromas of black raspberries and dark cherries fold into rich layers of vanilla and spice.  The flavors are full-bodied, delivering a punch of spicy red berries wrapped in vanilla and caramel following up with a generous finish of pepper and cocoa.

To finish out the quartet, I selected a Spanish sherry from González Byass.  “Solera 1847″ Oloroso Dulce ($11.95) is a sweet sherry made from Palomino and Pedro Ximénez (sometimes called “PX”).  The name of this sherry comes from original solera laid down in 1847 by González and Byass in Jerez, Spain. Within its golden brown, coffee-like tones are alluring scents of raisins, figs, and orange peel blended with a myriad of woody spices.  Creamy flavors of toffee, vanilla and dried fruits are balanced with soft acidity that ties it all together.  Perfect for a cold January afternoon!

Good Things Come In 3′s – A Sparkling New Year!

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Tasting Note

With 2009 being a year full of ups and downs, Sue an I were determined to start 2010 off right.  And what better way to start the new year than with Champagne and sparkling wine!  For this year we selected three very different wines from three very different places, each with it’s own unique style.  One with a distinguished pedigree; one from a small, rural producer; and one from an up-and-coming estate in a place you would not expect to find great sparkling wines.

The first sparkler of the evening was from Point Reyes Winery in Point Reyes Station, California, one of the few wineries in Marin County. This non-vintage blanc de blanc is made according to the traditional methods pioneered in Champagne, France.  The winemakers and owners, Steve and Sharon Doughty make their sparkling wines from all estate-grown fruit, and it shows.  Their location on the Pacific coast is well suited to growing chardonnay, where ocean breezes keep the grapes from ripening too quickly, allowing the fruit to retain its fresh acidity.  As the name implies, blanc de blancs are 100% chardonnay and this one exploded with all of the fresh, crisp flavors you might expect from a young, cool weather chardonnay.  The appley, citrus flavors were quite refreshing with prickly acidity delivered by a froth of fine bubbles.  This sparkler didn’t have the biscuity undertones that you would normally expect and the finish is short and clean, making it little one-dimensional, but still very delicious, especially for $25!  If you are looking to buy a bottle, your best bet is to contact the winery directly or stop in and visit their tasting room.

The next bottle of bubbly was a fantastic Champagne produced by Gonet-Medeville.  “Tradition,” as it is called, is a brut style, premier cru Champagne from the village of Bisseuil, France. Sue and I were fortunate enough to try this one at a Champagne tasting hosted by the Waterford Wine Company two days earlier, so we had a good idea what to expect. What we didn’t expect was how much better it was going to get! “Tradition” is a blend of the three grapes normally associated with fine champagne: chardonnay, pinot noir, and an obscure grape called pinot menuier.  The winemaker, Xavier Gonet, has blended these three grapes (70% chardonnay, 25% pinot noir, 5% pinot meunier) into a fine cuvée that evokes romantic images of rustic French villages on the chalky hillsides of Champagne.  Complex flavors and aromas of ripe apples, zesty citrus and fresh baked brioche meld seamlessly with the creamy, almond infused mousse.  The lengthy finish leaves you wanting more long after the bottle is empty!  Pricey ($52) but well worth it!

Last, and certainly not least, we finished our New Year’s celebration with an elegant vintage sparkling wine from the east coast.  The 2004 Kluge Estate Blanc de Blanc comes to us from Albemarle County in the state of Virginia, a location you would not normally associate with great sparkling wines. Kluge Estate Winery is a relatively new winery (1999) nestled into the Blue Ridge Mountains near Charlottesville, Virginia and is doing some great things with sparkling wines.  Winemaker Charles Gendrot and wine consultant Laurent Champs (owner of Vilmart et Cie in Champagne, France) painstakingly crafted this blanc de blanc from Kluge’s best chardonnay. The end result is a vibrant wine with finely focused apple and pear flavors and complex hints of warm toast and roasted almonds. It has a creamy mouthfeel with tight bubbles and a clean, zesty finish.  As an American sparkling wine, I found this blanc de blanc to be just as thought provoking and delicious as the Gonet-Medeville at fraction of the price ($32)!

This might be a good time to make a New Year’s resolution – Try one new Champagne or sparkling wine each month throughout the year.  There are so many great wines out there it seems a shame to relegate sparkling wines to only holidays or special events. Wouldn’t life be more interesting if we drank champagne just for the fun of it?

Here’s to a bright and promising new year. Cheers!

2006 Clérotstein Crémant d'Alsace – Symphonie en "P"

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Tasting Note

I know you are probably looking at the title, shaking your head and saying – What??!!  In short, this is a tasty and affordable sparkling wine made in the Alsace region of France.  Clérotstein is the producer and “Crémant d’Alsace” says it is a sparkling wine from Alsace.   Crémants are sparkling wines made in the traditional Champagne method.  France’s strict wine and food laws (AOC) only allow sparkling wines made in the Champagne region to be called “Champagne.”  In terms of quality, the AOC laws are just as strict for crémant, but the producers are allowed to use different grapes along with some other variations. Real Champagne’s usually command a hefty price tag ($40-$100 or more).  Crémants offer a wide array of affordable wines from many different regions of France.

Tasting Notes:

Symphonie en “P” is made from a trio of grapes that are well adapted to the cool Alsatian climate: pinot noir, pinot gris, and pinot blanc.  The final result is an effervescent blend of floral and citrus aromas combined with flavors of minerals, lemon peel, and toasty biscuits.  The idea of toast and biscuits in a sparkling wine may seem strange, but it is quite common and desired in Champagne and crémant.  These yeasty flavors come from the time the finished wines spend resting on lees. The cool climate keeps the acidity in the grapes high and it shows in how the bubbles and flavors dance around in your mouth for a lengthy finish.  Although this wine is labeled as “brut” or a dry style of wine, it still carries a little sweetness, but not at all unpleasant. Very good for $28.

If you are looking to find this wine, your best bet is to try Cinega Imports (DeRose Vineyards). They have several other Clérotstein wines that you may find interesting. Due to our pesky and antiquated shipping laws, call ahead or check their website to make sure they can ship to your location.

1976 Maison Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

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Tasting Note

 I’ve finally managed to pull myself away for from the office to enjoy some much needed vacation time.  I went to pick up my Christmas present at the Waterford Wine Company- 6 bottles of 2006 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve! Sue must really love me.  After I picked up the wine, Ben asked if I wished to sample a few wines he had open for his customers. Much to my surprise, one of the offerings was a bottle of 1976 Maison Leroy Vosne-Romanée, a Premier (1er) Cru Burgundy, from the Côte de Nuits!

This is the oldest, most prestigious (definitely the most expensive) wine I have tasted to date. With that in mind, I had no idea what to expect. Would tasting this wine be a life changing event or just another pricey pinot noir? Recognizing my limited experience in this arena, I have to say this is a really good wine.  It was not life changing, but still very good nonetheless.

Tasting Notes:

The ’76 Leroy has so many different layers of aromas and flavors it is hard to believe that there is only one grape variety in the bottle.  I was pleasantly surprised how vibrant the aromas and flavors were after almost 34 years.  In the glass, it has a gorgeous soft reddish-purple hue with a just a hint of garnet showing through on the edges.  Distinct aromas of tart cherries, smoke, and damp earth mingle together with sumptuous cherry flavors and a tart cranberry-like acidity. The finish seems to go on forever with wonderfully soft tannins that build towards the end.  I’ve tasted quite a few pinot noirs and many were very good, but this one has set a new standard!

What a great way to kick off the holidays.  Thanks Ben!

2005 Boorman Estate Pinot Noir

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Tasting Note

Boorman Vineyards is a relatively new winery located in southern California’s Temecula Valley. They are a very small operation (1,500 cases total) using state of the art equipment to craft their wines in small lots. Their focus is on creating a few unique wines with a degree of quality and finesse not found in larger operations. Boorman currently offers: Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, including a few Bordeaux-style blends. They also make a unique pinot noir.

The 2005 Pinot Noir is a huge wine! When I say “huge” I mean heavy bodied flavors with lots of alcohol (14.5% ABV). Southern California’s warm climate tends to produce much riper fruit than normally found in traditional pinot noirs. Boorman ferments their pinot noir for a longer period of time to breakdown the additional sugar in the ripe grapes, adding to the high alcohol content.

Tasting Notes:

The flavors and aromas are intense to say the least. Complex aromas of raisins, dark cherries, and pepper radiate from the glass. I compared this to a bottle of Leacock’s 10 year Madeira and the aromas were almost identical, very unusual for pinot noir. Tart cherry flavors combine with black pepper and a healthy dose of tannins. I suggest decanting or aerating this one early to help soften the tannins. The high alcohol content adds a tremendous amount of heat to the finish, making the wine seem out of balance. This is more like a tenacious young zinfandel than the delicate pinot noirs I have become accustomed to. Hopefully the 2007 is a little more balanced.

2005 Oreana Central Coast Pinot Noir

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Tasting Note
Located in downtown Santa Barbara, the Oreana Winery is in a tricked out combination winery/warehouse/tasting room called “Cellar 205.” In the past several years they have crafted some very interesting and award winning wines. As part of California’s Central Coast AVA, they enjoy a cool maritime climate where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish.

A few years ago I was lucky enough to buy a couple bottles of Oreana’s 2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir at a private tasting in Milwaukee hosted by David Breen. I didn’t realize how lucky I was until I heard that less than 100 cases were produced! This Thanksgiving seemed to be the perfect occasion to finally enjoy a bottle.

When we first open bottle we were immediately struck by rich cherry and spicy cinnamon aromatics. Pouring our first glasses of this dark red cherry colored Pinot Noir released even more of the wonderful aromas. This followed with juicy black cherry and currant flavors. The ripe red fruit and medium body made for a pleasing finish with just a little heat (14.1% ABV). A perfect pairing for Thanksgiving!

Wish I had bought more!

Wine Selection Tips for Thanksgiving

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News and Events
The Thanksgiving holiday is a special time for friends and family break bread together. The traditional Thanksgiving feast has a large selection of foods, all with their own unique flavors and textures. Selecting a wine or wines to go with this wide variation of dishes can be a daunting task. One thing is certain; there is no right or wrong answer. If you and your guests enjoy the meal (and the wine), that is all that really matters!

Sparkling Wines

Sparkling wines are a popular choice for most holiday meals. Crisp acidity, bright fruit flavors and yeasty undertones help make these wines extremely food-friendly. A good Blanc de Noir (a sparkling wine or Champagne containing Pinot Noir) pairs well with many courses, from cheeses to salads to turkey and potatoes. The bubbles, combined with the natural acidity, work to cleanse the palate for each course.

White Wines

Fruity white wines with lively acidity work well with any number of dishes. Sauvignon Blanc’s herbal aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, apples and pear compliment everything from butternut squash to the turkey and stuffing. Chardonnay, on the other hand, with its richer flavors and fuller body, goes better with creamy dishes. Gewürztraminer has an inherent spiciness that begs to be paired with cranberries or spicy pumpkin or squash soups.

Red Wines

Pinot Noir is probably one of the most versatile wines for the Thanksgiving meal. Flavors of tart cherries and strawberries, along with a nice balance of acidity and tannins, supports most courses without overpowering them. If dark meat is on the menu, consider a Zinfandel or a Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre (GSM) blend from the Côtes du Rhône. Their ripe, dark fruit flavors and rich tannins work well with fat in the meats.

Dessert Wines

Selecting a dessert wine can be a little problematic. Depending on the level of sweetness in the dessert, some wines may or may not work. If the dessert is not too sweet, consider a sweet wine like Muscat or an effervescent Moscato d’Asti. If your dessert is very sweet, look for a Port (ruby or tawny) or a late-harvest Riesling. These wines are very sweet and rich and will stand up to the sugar in the dessert. Of course all of these wines could be considered “dessert” just by themselves.

These are just a few hints and suggestions to help select a wine (or wines) that will compliment your Thanksgiving meal. The best part is that there is no right or wrong answer when it comes time to choosing a wine. If you like the wine, and it enhances your dining experience, that’s all that matters! The important thing to remember is that Thanksgiving is about friends and family. They are the ones that truly make Thanksgiving great!